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| 1. The various bits of wood required to make the project. |
2. The home made screw chuck fitted to the chuck. |
3. One of the plates fitted to the chuck. The short screw means only a shallow mounting hole is required. |
4. Reducing the blank to a true disc of 100mm (4in) diameter with 6mm (¼in) bowl gouge. |
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| 5. A facing cut using the bottom wing of the gouge to clean up and level the surface of the disc. |
6. Create a decorative feature using the long point of a skew chisel. This can incorporate a shallow recess to enable the plate to be reversed on to an appropriate set of jaws. |
7. Adding a small bead around the edge of the plate with a small skew. |
8. Sand the side and top of the plate to a finish, then repeat these steps with the other end plate. |
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| 9. Remount the plate either on the jaws to suit the recess, or use step jaws on a four jaw chuck. A wooden jam chuck can also be used for this stage. |
10. Reducing the thickness of the plate down to 14mm (9/16in) using a 10mm (3/8in) bowl gouge. |
11. Create a dimple in the centre to suit one end of the time glass so that the glass sits flush to the surface of the wood. The fit should be a little loose to avoid breaking the glass. |
12. Lightly draw a circle of 75mm (3in) diameter. It is important to get this dimension the same on both ends. |
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| 13. Mark three equal divisions on the line using a pair of compasses/dividers set to 37.5mm (1½in approx) and use these to divide the circumference into six equal parts. |
14. Use a bradawl to mark every other point and repeat for the other end plate. Ensure that when you mark the position of the holes in the second plate, the grain runs the same way as the first one. |
15. The second plate completed. Note the difference in size of the two ends of the glass. |
16. The brad point drill used to drill the holes for the spindles in the end plates. |
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| 17. The holes have been cut cleanly on each side with no breakout by using the right type of drill bit. |
18. The cone friction drive used to drive small diameter spindles, used in conjunction with a standard revolving centre in the tailstock. This type of drive minimises the chance of splittting the wood. |
19. The first spindle mounted between centres and being reduced to a 17mm diameter spindle using a 13mm roughing out gouge. |
20. The spindle marked to the correct length for the glass, 150mm (6in) in this case. |
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| 21. The spigots have been formed with the 3mm parting tool and the position of the central bead has been established. |
22. Using the long corner of the 6mm round skew to shape the central bead. |
23. The long curves are shaped using the 13mm roughing out gouge. |
24. A finished spindle. The spigots at the end have been cut to 7mm in length. Use this one to take the dimensions for the other two spindles. |
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| 25. Dry fitting the five major components to make sure that everything fits together properly prior to gluing up. |
26. Length of timber being prepared for the feet using a 13mm spindle gouge. |
27. The size of the feet have been established and the fixing spigots are formed using the 3mm parting tool. |
28. Shaping the feet using the long point of the 6mm round skew chisel. |
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| 29. All six feet have been shaped, spigots left at 4mm long and can be sawn apart with a small hacksaw. |
30. All eleven components turned and ready for finishing and final assembly. |
31. The first three coats of oil being applied, the final one being applied with 1000grit wet and dry. |
ANATOMY
Click to enlarge |
